The EZ Battery Reconditioning™ course is the easy to follow, step-by-step system to recondition all kinds of old batteries with just simple supplies you probably already have in your home.
The course is made up of step-by-step guides that show you how to recondition each type of battery. And each guide is full of pictures and diagrams so you not only read exactly what to do …you see exactly what to do as well!
To date, we have already had over 19,000 People Use EZ Battery Reconditioning™
Recharging 12 Volt Non-rechargeable Battery with Bedini Charger.
I already recharged larger dry cell NON-rechargeable lantern batteries with the Bedini Renaissance Battery charger and rejuvenator. Although the makers of the Bedini Renaissance Battery charger don’t say or recommend to do this I had good results. I used the lowest setting (setting 1) on the Bedini Renaissance Battery charger. I’m not sure how many times you can do this with batteries that are not designed to be recharged, but this did work several times on one 6 volt lantern battery already. These were just plain dry cell, non alkaline, Ray-O-Vac lantern batteries that are used in typical flashlights. This 12 volt volt non-rechargeable lantern battery took a charge when I used the lowest setting (setting 1) with the Bedini Renaissance battery charger and the green light on came on the battery charger eventually without the lantern battery getting hot or showing signs of damage. This battery charging method seems to work pretty good on the larger non-rechargeable dry cell batteries. It’s not recommended by the manufacturer of both the batteries or the charger, but I got good results experimenting with this. Video Rating: / 5
8 4 Volt Battery to 9 8 Volts with Bedini Charger Rejuvenator.
This John Bedini universal workhouse Renaissance Battery Charger and Rejuvenator is already proving to be worth every penny I paid for it. Most rechargeable batteries of the 9 volt design are batteries actually rated at 8.4 volts. But this John Bedini universal workhouse Renaissance Battery Charger & rejuvenator will safely charge those 8.4 rechargeable batteries up to 9.8 volts. And the special 9.6 volt rechargeable batteries, that are batteries designed for paintball guns and other high battery demand applications, the John Bedini universal workhouse Renaissance Battery Charger & rejuvenator, will charge the 9.6 volt rechargeable batteries up to almost 11 volts and sometimes over 11 volts depending on the battery brand. This John Bedini universal workhouse Renaissance Battery Charger will also charge 1.2 volt rechargeable batteries up to 1.4 volts in a safe manner. It is a great universal battery charger & rejuvenator. It is a universal battery charger & rejuvenator that will charge almost any rechargeable battery. Video Rating: / 5
Schematic: http://bartzz.com/public/555_desulfator/schematic.pdf Video Rating: / 5
I got two new Battery Desulfators, it the plan is to try to improve my battery bank.
Lead acid battery desulfator to revive and rejuverate batteries 12V/24V/36V/48V
combined auto pulse battery regenerator
SPECIFICATION
Working Amp 20mA max
Peak Amp 2A max
Peak Voltage 60-100V
Pulse Frequency 10,000HZ
Cutoff amp under 5mA
Size 88*56*23mm
Weight 150g, including inner package
Voltage 12V,24V,36V,48V combined,manuall setting
Remaks LED light indicates when pulse working
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
Batteries often fail because “sulfates” slowly develop and cover the battery plates. This sulfating process also
weakens the electrolyte and this combined with the gradual coating of the plates slowly and almost
imperceptibly reduces the battery’s ability to receive, store and then deliver power. This sulfating process
gradually impairs battery function and causes a capacity loss until the battery can no longer perform the
desired task and so the battery is deemed to have “failed”. However using an Auto Pulse Battery Desulfator
can reverse the process by dissolving the sulfates, cleaning the plates and restoring the electrolyte strength so improving a battery’s life and capacity for an extended period.The Auto Pulse Battery Desulfator,
Rejuvenator, Recovery unit uses no external power and generates a high-frequency pulse to dissolve batteries
“sulfates”.
FUNCTION
The High-frequency Peak Pulse delivers an electronically controlled pulse to the battery causing crystalline
sulfates to dissolve back into the electrolyte and so restoring battery function and electrolyte strength
regaining the batteries ability to receive charging currentand deliver discharge current.
Basic battery desulphator or desulfator
ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY
Many desulfator products use an old technology inductor design to generate the pulse to desulfate a battery.
This old technology creates a harsh inductor peak that can be damaging to the battery plates.
Utilising our new capacity pulsing method a “soft” peak is generated so dissolving sulfates without damaging
the battery plates.
Old technology also requires a large inductor so necessitating a physically large desulfator device whereas
using our advanced technology design the Auto Pulse Desulfator device is very compact yet provides BIG
performance.
NEW CYCLIC PULSING FUNCTION
In a similar manner to a Pulse battery charger (charge – rest –charge –rest etc)
a cyclic desulfating pulse function (pulse – rest – pulse – rest etc)
optimizes a batteries recovery process.
This method of desulfation has been implemented in the new Auto Pulse Desulfator
AUTO PULSE DESULFATOR BENEFITS
Increases Battery Power
Extends Battery Life
Battery Charge Faster
Longer Discharge
Prevents Sulfate Build-up
Reduces Evaporation
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGES
Fully Automatic voltage selection. 12V 24V 36V and 48V
New Cyclic pulse generation method for improved capacity recovery“Soft” Peak Pulsin
Auto cutoff function to prevent over discharge of battery
User Configurable override for manual voltage selection
_______________________________________________________
My PlayHouse is a channel where i will show, what i am working on. I have this house, it is 168 Square Meters / 1808.3ft² and it is full, of half-finished projects.
I love working with heating, insulation, Servers, computers, Datacenter, green power, alternative energy, solar, wind and more. It all costs, but I’m trying to get the most out of my money, and my time.
If you follow these tips, you should be able to totally recondition your car battery at home for a fraction of the price of a new battery and you will know how to maintain that battery to keep it performing optimally and dependably for you in the future. Part 1 Part 2 has been added https://youtu.be/RG9A73Jqf04 Video Rating: / 5
Go to http://www.batterychem.biz/ to purchase — MADE IN THE USA – SOLE DISTRIBUTORSHIPS NOW AVAILABLE WORLDWIDE. OUR BATTERY MANUALS ARE FREE. WRITE TO BATTERYCHEM@AOL.COM
Distributors wanted worldwide. Now Shipping World-Wide.
Contact wbarrett1@aol.com for samples.
MADE IN THE USA
Transcript:
Battery Reconditioning Tools
Safety glasses, a plastic funnel, a battery hydrometer, a battery post cleaner, a common screwdriver, a voltmeter with probes on it, a battery load tester, and the chemicals to add.
Step 1. Clean the terminals
Battery post cleaner with wire brushes up inside it. Place it on the post, turn it several times, remove it, and then go to the next post, push it on, turn it several times, and remove it. That gets rid of the corrosion and dirt off the sides of the post.
Step 2. Check the voltage
Check the voltage of the battery before you do anything else. If the battery doesn’t read at least 12 volts, you’ve got a problem with one of your cells. Check the cells to see if one of them is dead.
Step 3. Test the cells.
Remove the battery caps. Use a common screwdriver, catch it under the edge, pry up, and put them aside. Now proceed with the cell test.
Testing the cells: We have these probes that we’ve made from coat hanger wire. They’re expendable – when they get corroded out you just throw them away and make new ones.
Clip them on to your voltmeter. Start with the positive terminal, and put your cable on it. Go to the first cell and get a reading of two volts. Go with the positive cable to the first cell, and then to the second cell, and you should get a reading of two volts. Keep going down the battery, positive/negative. You must get a reading of at least 2 volts for each cell, or you’ve got a weak or a bad cell.
Step 4. Battery load test.
It’s important how you hook this up to the battery. You always hook up the positive lead first and the negative lead last, so you won’t make any sparks and have an explosion.
There’s a switch on the bottom of the load tester that puts a load on the battery. It heats up a heating coil, behind the grill. When I put this switch on, you’re going to see the meter drop. Now you’re going to see the meter drop. Count 10 seconds by going 1001, 1002, etc. until you get to 1010 very slowly. You feel the heat coming out of the grill here. And then when you let go of the switch, well, there are two things you want to know.
Second is, when we let it go, it goes right back up to about 13 volts again. The battery is really in very good shape, Always take off the ground first – so you won’t make any sparks.
Step 5. Hydrometer test.
The battery hydrometer is a glass tube with a suction bulb on it that draws the electrolyte from the battery up into the glass tube until the float inside begins to float. Now when the float is floating, it has markings on it. You can see a red strip from there to there, a narrow white strip and then a little wider green strip. If it floats up and it’s in the green, that means the battery’s in pretty good shape.
The more that the float sticks up out of the electrolyte – in other words, if it’s down in here somewhere – the stronger the battery is. If it only floats up into the white, that means the battery is only in fair shape. And if it goes up into the red then it really needs a charge.
So what we’re going to do now is we’re going to do a couple of sample tests so that you can see how this works. This is the actual test:
You place the hydrometer down in the cell so it touches the top of the plates. You squeeze the bulb, as hard as you can. Get all the air out of it. Then draw the electrolyte up into the glass cylinder.
Now you see the float is floating already, so you can stop right there, hold it level, and let it float. It’s just at the top of the green into the white. So obviously that’s an indication that the battery needs some charging, because the specific gravity of the electrolyte is low.
Now remember, this fluid is called electrolyte. It’s very dangerous – you don’t want to get it on your clothing.
Now we put it all back in the cell.. There’s more of the green showing. So we put that one back if it still needs a charge. This also is a good way to test a cell.
The hydrometer is another way to see what condition your cells are in.
While you’re doing this you should also check the level of the
electrolyte inside the battery, and that level should be at least an eighth of an inch above the top of the lead plates.
Step 6. Adding the chemical.
Once we determine that this battery is available for reconditioning, it’s time to add the China Depot battery reconditioning chemicals.
We take a plastic funnel, and a tablespoon, and we get a heaping spoon, and we start with the first cell. Add it’s very dry so it goes in easily.
Charge the battery for about 24 hours, and we should have another perfectly reconditioned battery. Video Rating: / 5
